Orangerie - Timmendorfer Strand

It was again a good opportunity to explore the scenery of the gastronomic summit in Lübecker and Ostholsteiner, which I of course did not want to leave in any case. After a family trip to the famous Karl-May Festivals in Bad Segeberg, the evening should again receive a culinary crown. Our choice led us back to the Timmendorfer Strand, right on the Lübecker Bay, which I had already visited for the very positively surprising visit of the Balthazar this May. As reported recently, the Balthazar had to close his doors in the meantime, very to my regret. Luckily, with his Michelin Prize it was not alone in this St(r) and place. Rather, it was more than a delicate patch compared to the Orangerie restaurant, which is also part of a hotel, the iconic high-rise of the Maritim Seehotel. No other restaurant in this area stands for high-quality gastronomic resistance, like this institution. This is because the skill in the kitchen as well as in the service and wine cellar has been actively guided by two people for a quarter of a century, who can rightly call themselves the origin of their farm. This would be Lutz Niemann, who since 1984 swings the cooking spoon with a short break in this kitchen in the Lübeck bay. For more than a quarter of the century he also managed to have the coveted Michelin star and since 1994 17 points in the Gault-Millau in the Orangery. Unchanged, its entire concentration still applies directly to the Baltic Sea, so that this work of life is still a term of people interested in gastronomy. However, this level should also correspond to direct contact with the guest. Ralf Brönner has also made an important contribution to the restaurant's reputation for 25 years with his leadership in the service sector and keeps him loyal. In addition to his role as Chef-Maître, he also takes care of over 400 places of the gourmet restaurant Weinkeller. Does such a decade-long constancy in the two important areas of gastronomy now mean a routine that makes happiness through a lot of experience or rather a less attractive dust layer on the long tradition harmless? To learn this, the tension and anticipation increases tonight, especially in a direct comparison with the great experience in Balthazar, which now unfortunately has to remain in memory. Outside view. With regard to the ambience, it is certainly not surprising that one does not meet a futuristic-topactic or a casual-urban equipment in the orangery. At Maritim Seehotel -Hochhaus is the gastronomic hanging sign on the ground floor, not overlooking the sea, but still on the beautiful greening of the square in front of the back of the hotel. There is also a kind of veranda-winter garden that allows guests to enjoy their meal with fresh sea air around the nose, but nevertheless in a weather-protected location. The entrance to the restaurant in the hotel. Interior view. They would have been almost disappointed if the interior of such a traditional restaurant of upscale gastronomy did not come with a lush chandelier. Of course, this expectation is already justified when the spatiality is input, in whose center a straight light ensemble is immediately in the eye. Also at eye level the lighting is equipped with crowns - lamps and mirrors on the walls strengthen their effect. In combination with the consistently bright cream coloring of curtains and seat covers, this gives a brightening atmosphere in which the natural daylight does not come too short. The black ornaments on the fabric covers and the also decorated black carpet look like a color contrast that gives the interior a feeling and elegance. Around 60 seats are inside, where the tables with high-end partitions offer a very private atmosphere. White tablecloths are also not missing in this design. Separate flower decorations give the interior small color pencils. For special occasions, the restaurant also lists private dining rooms on its website. A pleasing testimony to the fact that you want to open new concepts of the present in the truest sense of the word is the fact that a “glass” kitchen at the end of the guest room of those interested in art, as I am, gives the opportunity to directly consider driving the playful team around Lutz Niemann. On Saturday night the restaurant was estimated at 80. This large number of guests took care of a 3-person service line, in which Ralf Brönner, of course, already mentioned, and a young man and two young ladies were fully active. Mr. Brönner adapted to the classic ambience as a “Chef-Host” with just as classic suit, while the other service forces loosened the atmosphere in a ironed white shirt with red service cure. We were in contact with all the hosts in the evening, while the main communication took place with the young service owner. He was distinguished by skillful goodness. Unfortunately, however, unlike the first courses of the menu he came to swim in the selection of cheese and the presentation of the Petit Fours. Not only that he couldn't explain the cheeses to me, for example in the end, I had to put the dish on the neighboring table with my choice, as he probably completely gasses them in his madness. As with the Petit Fours, he often fell the cutlery or the Petit Fours from their plates. Unfortunately, however, there are not inconsiderable maladministrations in view of the claim of the device that cannot be turned under the carpet. The young ladies did their job at the table with routine and accuracy. Mr Brönner, too, was not active in the service and in advertising with us, but, for example, would like to wish an additional good appetite before the main course and give us water. The cheese and the petitish fauxpas also took a long break to the main course where we felt a little forgotten. Thus, the service performance has already been adapted in its way to the noble, classic ambience, but for these reasons it is unfortunately not possible to evaluate with the highest score. However, it should be stressed that the mood among him does not suffer excessively. But finally to the culinary part. A 6-course menu called Orangerie Menu for 139 € can be used in 3 courses for 89 €; 4 gears for 106 € and 5 gears for 124 € are reduced. In addition, an a-la-carte offer is also granted, which is becoming increasingly rare in gourmet restaurants. Their price ranges from starters and desserts to the 20s and 30s and from the main courses in the 50s and 60s €. The dishes offered were already lived here by the name and composition of the classic base of the kitchen. Currently, for example, products such as seedlings, seed tongues or rehbock backs were in focus, with different sauces such as Sauce Mousseline and Brombeerjus marking the classic kitchen path. Classic with imaginative accents and imperfect and tasty: These two quotes from the restaurant website best combine their own claim to the offered kitchen. From this offer, I decided to get to the "Orangerie Menu" in 4-courses, while my accompaniment in 3 courses wanted to convince itself of the culinary credo of the orangery kitchen. Of the 6 gears you have complete freedom of combination. In the case of drinks, I personally left it with the quiet water that comes from the brand Gerolsteiner Gourmet naturell and cost 8.5 € per 0.75 l bottle. My accompaniment also enjoyed Roséwein by Andreas Bender for 8.5 € the 0.2 l glass. As an aperitif, the culinary opening was a salmon cake with horseradish, apple slices and apple bais Apero: salmon steer with horseradish, apple slices and apple bais. The Tatar enjoyed the palate with a wonderful melt. The apple was also beautifully present and added something crisp. Only the ride was not to feel and therefore lacked as a welcome counterpart, so the appetizer seemed a bit too sweet overall. A large bread arrangement could be countered to acute hunger at the bottom. Sauerteigbrot and linseed bread (above) with caramelized pumpkin seeds, olive oil, chickpea cream and Fleur de Sel (center) and mother butter (above). The sourdough bread was wonderful, even inward still steaming, warmed and thrilled by a chess crust and loose crumbs. A linseed bag bread was suitable as a crispy basis for the consumption of some of the other additives to this bread arrangement. These were, for example, a mother butter (below), which came easily like a foam and at the same time characteristically sweet-aromatic. A chickpea cream (right) was also very loose and creamy and thus a light hummus interpretation with acid used. The olive oil was also of particularly impressive quality with great fruitiness. Caramelized pumpkin seeds (on the left) rounded off the arrangement as a beautiful sweet salted snack as well as the obligatory Fleur de Sel (on the right side directly under the bread). Another Amuse Gueule closed the tuning before the menu with a variation around the tuna. Amuse Gueule around the tuna. On the one hand, this consisted of a tuna mosaic with Nori alga. The raw tuna showed a very good sushi quality and was characterized by its fleshy consistency and its beautiful fresh taste. The tuna with zucchini and Shisokresse-Sorbet naturally convinced the tuna again, this time slightly creamy, fresh. This melty texture added the very fine and very exactly cut zucchini discs with their bite a suitable level of mouth feeling. The Shisokresse-Sorbet on it finally revitalizes the revolver, as it had missed on the salmon apero with the rider for me, with a beautiful balance of sweetness and sharpness A slice of red radish was added to the amuse, with its sharpness, again a small flashing kick that animated the taste buds. The Yellow Eggs, on the other hand, had no tasteful added value. After this appetizer, the menu for me started with the first appetizer dedicated to Périgord Gänseleber with Mirabelle, Apple and Mandel. “Périgord Gänseleber with Mirabelle, Apple and Almond . In equal to three variations, the advertised main players were staged. The Gänseleber-Pastete in the Mandel-Mantel (below) enthralled me with craftsmanship and qualitatively perfect training thanks to a stable consistency and yet wonderful melt to which the almonds naturally gave a matching crispy component. A gooseberry cream with apple kernels and forest beer-lee peel (left) convinces, as almost no other expects, with loose cream. While the apple could hardly sound, the Waldbeer-Gelee took over this accompanying job perfectly, because acidity and sweetness were wonderfully suitable for the warmth of the liver. My, the still blossoming, favorite was the caramelized gooseberry on apple-wirabellen-compot (above). Crispy roasted and with light pink, juicy core: Thus, the art of craftsmanship was clearly shown in the kitchen. In addition, as a warm component there was a great temperature change to the two other cold liver compositions. In terms of precision, the superfine Mirepoix made of apple and Mirabelle clear the pre-existing level. A beautiful sweet and acidic game as a companion of the liver was added to this again pleasantly crisp variety. Other small elements on this versatile plate were a marzipan hammer and tupfer from almond marzipan cream, Mirabellen gel and small Mirabellen sections. Both the marzipan hammer and the cream hops of almond marzipan were much more aromatic than just sweet and therefore fit very well into the whole concept of the farm. Above all, the small Mirabelle cuts and velvets gave another freshness with an acidity that once punctured, which gave the herbal liver a suitable counterweight and thus produced a round overall taste. A phenomenal start for me, which I truly want to call “good for eye closures”. Brioche at Gänseleber-Gang. Of course, some were not allowed to miss the roasted disc Brioche. In the second course the 3-course menu of my accompaniment began, which now served us both lobster and baked fördegarnel with pineapple Chutney and Bisque. Hummer and baked fördegarnel with pineapple Chutney and Bisque The triggered pieces of the tail and the scissors once again showed that a very good product quality is in the first place, because fleshiness and juice were as much as you wish from this sea dweller. The lobster was bathed in a crusty bisque, which was already on the nose during pouring and fortunately remained in a saucer for pouring in. No drop should be left because their tasteful strength is also persuasive on each spoon. Fresh green asparagus added a vegetarian crabness and its characteristic taste. The fördegarnel, which was apparently baked in the Panco jacket, was of great size and with its hearty crunch a fun variety to lobster and bisque. One part received a creamy lobster on a pineapple cahutney, where the sophisticated acid of pineapple added another combination stage with the noble marine animal. For the main course, we both chose the fish variant that was the choice of a gear wheel around Salt meadow Lamb. “Atlantik Steinbutt mit Pfifferlingen, Gartengurke, Dill und potato came to the table for us. Atlantik Steinbutt mit Pfifferlingen, Gartengurke, Dill und Potato . Here we both expected a perfect classic in pure form. The fillet of the stone butter was not only very juicy and can easily be divided into its lamellae, but also refined tastefully by the roasting process to the point. Coming from a very fine but potato puree perfectly crushes the main actor, with the three-tone of pufflingen, punched cucumber slices and fresh dill also clearly and in optimal balance. What should not be missing to complete such a classic fish course? Of course, a foamy beurre sheet, which was once again the most common cooking art and with salty acidic balance, was also optimally tastefully. Here we also enjoyed the saucers that remained at the place for the aftertaste, which could be completely empty by the service. Appetizer for the raspberry. A raspberry sorbet on a raspberry butter cream in a quad of crisp, white chocolate. That sat on a raspberry gel and was doubled with champagne foam and a baiser disc. Together with the raspberry pieces, this product was again well made with textures and temperatures. The beautiful acid was not neglected, overall it was for my own palate, but as a Predessert something too sweet. But there was really nothing to bring out in taste and craftsmanship. To complete the menu, for me personally pleaded, one granted both a usual sweet and a hearty option. What is to be expected in view of the so often mentioned classic of the culinary philosophy of the house was a choice of raw milk cheese. Cheese selection. Blue cheese (below), goat cheese (left) and two cow's milk cheese (top, right) from cheese selection. Due to the above mentioned service fauxpas, I can't say anything about the varieties I choose because unfortunately the current service owner could not. Thanks to Mr. Brönner, it was at least possible to find out that this was from the well-known farm, baked wood, which ran over the way in some restaurants. I then chose a blue cheese (below), as well as a slightly softer, tastefully clear variant (left). There were also two hard cheeses, one of which remembered a dike cheese (above) and the other of a kind of parmesan (right). Although I know nothing about the exact basis of the varieties, they were all very good ripeness and aroma. Adding to the cheese: honey, fruit bread, pumpernickel, grapes, black walnuts, butter (from bottom to top), also the classic accompaniment with pumpernickel, fruit bread, honey, butter, grapes and the black walnuts, which I especially like to add to beautiful combinations with the cheese. My counterpart, of course, did not want to miss the satisfaction of her sweet tooth. Undoubtedly, she hoped to be able to enjoy the now served dessert, called subtleties of shadow mortals and heart cherries with aromas of balsamico. Fine of shades and heart cherries with aromas of Balsamico. As with Predessert, the cherries were worked up in a variety of ways, such as sorbet, **** or the surprising “false” cherry from a kind of cherry cream in the jelly wall. In the central cherry mirror, which was in a beautiful caramel-creme ring, the balsamico was also installed, which was also striking and remarkable for my accompaniment. So she was happy with her dessert. Thanks to the last, small season of Petit Fours, I did not have to miss the last insulin shot, although it is worth mentioning that for both people only a copy was served on the plate intended for demand. Petit Fours. After their own gusto, but each of us could choose something from the chocolate car for themselves. Chocolate selection. Without explaining the wide range in detail, craftsmen and taste were convinced and the dishes were perfectly closed for us. As usual, I would like to summarize the collected impressions of this Saturday evening menu in the Orangery. The lively classic of 28 years of star-guided gastronomy is already held as a guest when entering the guest room. This ambience was not dusty or old-fashioned, but presented itself very noble and cozy at the same time. An overwhelming severity of ancient luxury was definitely not to hear. The service team around Ralf Brönner worked in a way that was perfectly adapted to the attributes of this ambience. As described above, especially in comparison to other upscale restaurants that I have been able to visit so far, it is not possible to ignore the unambiguous deficiencies in the knowledge of the offered cheese selection and the serving fauxpas, which are probably caused by excitement at the end of the menu, but in the final assessment. Nevertheless, I would like to point out once again that the whole enjoyment we have taken tonight cannot be sustained, but finally it cannot remain unnoticed. On the other hand, the team around Lutz Niemann not only managed to convince in the kitchen with the menu from the front to the back, but also to inspire. One thing for me was equally noticeable for all foods as pleasant. The flavors of the dishes were always based on the pure taste of their products. Spices never played a role here and were completely unnecessary, because from each component you have always brought out the best and much intensity. This once again illustrates the experience in the kitchen, as well as the appreciation and mastery of craft perfection. A kitchen that deserved these praise songs for their lived art for me. Fortunately, at the end of our menu, I was able to give Mr. Niemann an interesting personal conversation during his visit to the table, which confirmed his focus on the own strength of the products and the associated classical flavors. Nevertheless, he tries not to lose the current course of time, also through an intensive exchange and cooperation of his young chefs, which he has succeeded very well. In a retrospective of the joy granted this evening, there is a reason for the desired price, which, with a relaxed and pleasant evening, enabled another great memory and experience in the gastronomic diary. This did not destroy the storms in service. In Timmendorfer Strand, in the area of star gastronomy, you can experience a wonderful evening in the orangery even after the fall of the Balthazar, which is characterized by a relaxed reconciliation on more classic culinary routes. I believe that even the lower rated performance was not a chronic makel, but perhaps even more a daily fluctuation.

Every band a dream. Five stars! Service: Dine in Meal Type: Dinner

Very good service. Fantastic the 4-course menu. The accompanying wines are a positive surprise. Always ready to fulfill wishes

Very good service. Fantastic the 4-course menu. The accompanying wines are a positive surprise. Always ready to fulfill wishes

It is nice that there are still places where you can enjoy the high-quality culture. You don't get a flowerpot economically. There is hardly any more the audience that still appreciates this kind of gastronomy. Despite the high prices that are not really high when considering human use, it is worth every cent. Thanks for the beautiful evening, the attentive service and the optically and tastefully excellent menu For the Maître good improvement and until next year.