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Bidrage med feedbackHow I was only invited to the Grappa and expelled after the table... La Grappa is an institution in Essen. Since 1978, Italian foods and, in particular, wines and also the world-famous vaults have been crumbled. Those who inform themselves about the restaurant on the Internet may expect a lot: very good cuisine, the best wine map in the world, professional and dedicated waiters, a dazzling patron whose wine trade there were unproven rumours, but there are many who are only so stunned against arrogance. And finally, celebrities, in particular business bosses of the precinct, which here in the niches thread their deals. Now some say that not everything is to be believed in the net. But I was curious when I went through the entrance at an angle to the current Evonik Centrale after an unproblematic telephone reservation at an already advanced hour. This is the report on my personal and, of course, not too general drama in three files. 1. Just went well A part of the place is at street level on the big windows. A few steps back. One feels at the beginnings of Italian gastronomy in Germany. Wine boxes, bottles, lots of Nippes without a hint of self-iron. The walls along niches with dark stained wood and white walls in coarse spatula technology, stoneware plate and supposedly copper-driven made in Taiwan. Walled pseudo-acids, gables made of brown-coated plywood. Hardly a suburban Italian would offer this today if he is actually interested in guest turnover. Well, that I was warned by the network research was an institution you see a lot. And whoever is full of this ambience on a Tuesday evening of 2016 must have more to offer. I was greeted personally by the boss, who could easily associate myself, I remained the only guest without accompaniment this evening. Then, of course, to offer me the worst table. In the rear corner, strictly speaking not in the guest room anymore, but in a corridor that leads not only to the pass of the kitchen, but also to the toilets. Situated with all sorts of things that accumulate in a restaurant. Grotesquely, the man still linked this humiliation with the words The table of the boss... . Was it my unconstitutional look or my moaning laughing? In any case, Signor Fratessi pushed a cheerful... if he's drunk! The lightning out of my eyes could have killed Chuck Norris, and I was on the heel to go right away. There happened the first odds of the evening. With a polite voice, another table was proposed to me, quite on the contrary to the first, now in the eye of the storm. What is almost literally to be understood, since the niche was directly behind a large table in the middle of the room, at which the economic growth of this country caused it to crash properly, at least in terms of noise. One second I waved and again happened strangely: just as the flame-retardant courage of the little people finally woke up in me. If I already let myself be done in this museum of romance-affected German Italian love, then right! No, no, if even the boss sits on such a table, he is good enough for me, I spoke and put my wardrobe in the hand of the waiting head. The patron gave me a thoughtful look and went seriously through his empire. At the end of 1st act 2. My home is my castle Arrived in my cave with the back to the grumbling, the older gentlemen in the neighboring country dispensing a kind greeting I looked around in peace. I saw the dried adhesive residues of the once measuring tube on the yellowed radiator and the naked electric cables hanging from the wall above. But I also noticed the colourful shrouds that fell from time in the silvered bread bowl. And noted that, unlike the already strained suburban Italians, there are the names on the empty wine boxes Tignanello, Sassicaia or Ornellaia. On the table a heavy red blanket over a white one. Then a blue stem glass for the water and a clear for wine. White fabric napkins and silver cutlery frame a set plate which comes with cobalt and fine gold rim as well as gülden coat of arms. With one word: Grandezza! What was also true for the waiters who seem to see their profession as a vocation. No chichi, but with the necessary seriousness, courtesy and professional eye. Old school stops, which also applies literally, because the youngest of the Riege regretted that he was not yet able to see the menu and internet appearance in the style of a large famiglia made team photo, unlike his colleagues. That was done in the '90s, and he was in the house for 15 years. This continuity in the staff of both brigades is certainly a proof of quality and not the most important. I was mostly served by the Oberkellner, who was able to adapt very quickly to the obscure objects of my desire. But his two colleagues were always attentive to the wardrobe service and the support to the door. Except for a certain stiffness, everything worked excellently, including the reliable wine and water service, where my place at the hallway to the kitchen sink proved to be an advantage. The next waiter was never far and could not overlook me, close enough he had to. Before I took a look into the open menu, I wanted to know what to keep from the seemingly so proactive wine card. And after all, not a self-certified title, but an award from the Vinitaly Verona 2005, which is already impressive, as well as the scope of the offers. Here, however, there is a somewhat stand-alone selection with a clear focus on the red and the Super Toscans and the brands, the home of the owner. The sheer mass, however, leads to the fact that even the neglected plants offer more than enough, only from my favorite Friuli six different wines. Among them is the rarely offered local Friulano grape, the former Tocai. A full-bodied wine with fruity bouquet that accompanied me through my rather light menu. The wine map can also be found on the net in extracts, but only after a search, namely on the sides of the casual La famiglia. While a revision has been announced on the main page for months, an older version is still active at the small Ristorante. However, the great weakness of the map also reveals: Gracelessly overpriced! For the very good but also not torn whites, 65€ are now called instead of 48€. Then the €7.5 for the SP go through as a bargain, just like the €21 for two glasses of the newly opened vintage 2002 Ferrari Pearl, which was brut, golden yellow and finally cold enough in the beating glass. From these good powers, it went to the selection. But a devil on his shoulder whispered me to feel a little bit on the tooth of this self-confident hort of Italian delicacies. So I asked for mixed cold cuts and cheeses as a start and the offered mushrooms baked as fritto. Unfortunately, there came a retreat from the kitchen, for which the specimens are not suitable, hear, but you can offer them small cut with piping from the pan. Well, why not? The affetati were calculated with 10€, the mushroom mixture with 12€. From the map a carpaccio of scallops should be added 16€, as pasta the caramelle allo bacon 1/2 serving 9€ and as the main course quails with piquillos 29€. The PLV for the dishes! I see in the light of the following performance on the plates and an overall view of the drums at above-average 4 stars. At first, however, a fresh good white bread was added, with a herbal cucumber of herbal mortars which had the strength setting mortars, and in about the same taste to be suspected. That's just going back. Since the open olive oil in the cannula also seemed little convincing, I asked for replacement. And as already reported, the service acted as a must. The head was looking for a fragrant oil from the Lake Garda DOC as a decoration or for sale in the local area, which replaced me with a slightly ground salt almost to the Beermann Reds. While I was still sworn, the kitchen already sent the desired slicer and I knew that I would not move hungry from then: three abundantly dimensioned salami milanese, romana and siciliana, the latter nevertheless left a very tall mouth feeling due to the thickness, with a mountain of rather medium parmigiano breads. Although the appetite was still great at the beginning of the evening, I had to leave some cheese on the plate, thinking about the other courses. After a pleasant waiting time, as well as later, it was much easier. The Noci di Capesante were announced as Carpaccio, but significantly thicker cut and marinated in a retaining Vinaigrette. The harmonized excellent and the quality there was nothing to complain about. The many vegetable cubes of Zucchino, Paprika !, Möhre ! and celery !!! as well as the many salads I would not have used for the mussel at all. At least colorful. The two large dough pockets lit orange, and I would have sworn on pumpkin as a colour encoder, but the service was not to be removed from red beds. Decisive that the Gargrad was perfectly hit, the Tirolerspeck filling was strong, like the fried Salsiccia Krumen about it. A really hot parmesan sauce. A real pleasure! Unfortunately, the following mushrooms fell slightly from pluckedlings and mushrooms from the pan Very hot, strongly fried and still with bite, the mushrooms could hardly score tastefully. This was certainly not the best freshest product. There were better plucked paws with shallots, but also nothing, which with good specimens did not extend at home. A highlight, however, is the palate refreshment. No sorbet, but on the spoon a single, perfect looking and also so delicious raspberry along with 40 years old Balsamico refreshment: Balsamico 40 years and DIE raspberry fruity, sweet, acidic, spicy, great! The main court finally again with lots of light and some shadow. Four lovely big half guards fried and sworn. I prefer to crispy, but still there were full-meat, very juicy and tasty specimens. Don't stand it. Nor are the separately served green beans and baked rosemary potatoes The very aromatic Spanish pointed peppers were drawn off, not too soft and marinated. And that was the problem. Just as with the crumbling-rich sauce, too much acidity was in the game, which gave the guards no chance to unfold. If that's a specialty in sour sauce, it didn't hit my taste. Shame! After the luxuriant course of meat, my stomach was striving for a dessert. I went deeper into the wine list and was also impressed by the many Italian dessert wines and their prices. Great grows, but I didn't even know anything about the name. I therefore asked the cartridge to the table to ask him, in his opinion, for two Passiti, between whom I waved. Signore both took a hand-movement from the table: Only a Tuscan Muffato della Sala by Antinori could be considered and he definitely tapped on the 2006er for 95€ for 0.5l. The assertion that the boss always recommends only the most expensive bottle considered, proved to be untenable when Vin San Giusto had been possible for € 105. Thanking and with a praise for the certainly outstanding quality of wine I refused with reference to the price. It followed a great view, a shoulder tong and a hand movement, as was only given to the sons of Garibaldis. And then the remark that has been made that I am of course invited. Grandezza!!! The wine, a cuvée of Chardonnay and mainly Grecchetto, was indeed excellent. Pleasant fruity sweetness, sufficiently well-integrated acidity, thereby alive and well cooled. There is also a selection of purchased chocolates, pastries and white and black Tartufi di Alba. A very tasty conclusion of a meal with heights and unfortunately also, let's say flat places. End 2. Act and time for a balance sheet: Very good kitchen: Only a clearly stretched Jaaa For the elderly: The 5 mark is already on the pigderl... Excellent wine map: Within the scope of the set priorities, absolutely. Best service: Without any question. Arrogant boss: Yes and no. A guy just belonging to an extinct genus of gastronomes. Was there anything else? Oh yes, celebrities: 3. News from Skurrilistan After taking a seat, the view turns around and remains hanging in the penultimate niche. Isn't that? Sure, he is! Until a few years ago, one of the most prominent economic bodies in the Republic. And the conversation that is already underway, even with a lot of sympathy for privacy in no way to be heard, reports from the highest circles: Mr. Schröder made this and Mrs. Merkel that... and the minister wanted to... and I said to my people... And the conversation partner? Nee, the back of my head doesn't seem familiar, at most the cutting voice. But there's my food coming now. Well, I can't listen to the process anymore: you're sure you did then? But of course, it was. Then you say best as a witness... After all, I now recognize the interlocutor, one of the most famous German criminals in economic matters. Actually unbelievable what some people talk about in public places or on the train... If I were a journalist now? What's up, the next gang. At the same time, the conversation goes to the side table private things, one crosses around fireland, the other has an estate in Montpellier, his son has studied there. Look, mine too. How nice. The evening tends, the contents of the bottles too. I'm on my way, still a friendly word to the greats of the country and greet Montpellier, the beautiful. Ho! You also a lover of the South? Come on, sit down. You are pleased and steadfast, asking where and where. At least the economist. The lawyer looks acidic, suddenly suspects the small whispering attack a little late, my dear... . No, no, professorship and client are called to calm down, the latter ones just down from the opposite, now not all parents were big enough for good nurseries. Don't worry, the mood is still good if I don't want to try a grappa. The upper is secondary, they were thrown out of the bottom basement. Mr Verteidiger escaped, he was standing on the window board in the firm. The conversation goes here and there, also to the political. You don't think so. Right? It turns out who I am, and what I do here at all, I can go now, you didn't ask me to the table! Actually, I think. But my parents had a sufficiently spacious home. I would like to thank the Executive Director, who has been really nicely chatting with me up to 30 seconds ago and now looks a little disappointed. I get my coat from the top, I'll be accompanied to the exit and passed by hand. Outside the door I think: Crazy dream! And look forward to the tranquil Saarland. The curtain falls.
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